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An ancient juniper tree helps frame the hanging half moon and granite bedrock by Eagle Lake Buttress in Desolation Wilderness, a mile (1.6 km) west of Lake Tahoe's Emerald Bay, in California's Sierra Nevada. Scoured by glaciers during the last ice age, some 10,000 years ago, Desolation's rugged terrain encompasses many inviting peaks and rock-rimmed lakes that belie its off-putting name; the area, in fact, tallies more hiker usage than any other wilderness in the United States.